Monday, September 7, 2009

Nature's fix for flawless skin

Nature's fix for flawless skin

5 potent botanicals that firm, smooth, and tone--we've got the
research to prove it

By Jessica Girdwain

We're not surprised that the latest crop of skin rejuvenators comes
straight from Mother Nature--many of you prefer products that harness
the anti-aging power of plants and believe they're better for your
skin. Doctors say they're effective, too. "Botanicals are the best
sources for discovering new ingredients that protect and repair aging
skin," says Zoe Draelos, MD, a clinical and research dermatologist in
High Point, NC. Vitamins, antioxidants, and emollients that spring
from leaves, nuts, and fruits can soften wrinkles, fight sagging, and
boost radiance. Here, we've unearthed five that deliver a major youth
boost--just how nature intended.

Bearberry

A flowering shrub that flourishes throughout the United States,
bearberry is quickly becoming a popular skin brightener. The leaves
contain arbutin, a derivative of the skin lightener hydroquinone,
which reduces the formation of pigment-producing melanin.
Unfortunately, HQ can irritate skin. Bearberry is a milder--but
effective--HQ alternative when combined with other botanically based
pigment faders, says Sonia Badreshia-Bansal, MD, a dermatologist in
San Francisco.

In one study published in the Journal of Investigative Dermatology,
women with melasma who applied a cocktail that included bearberry
extract once a day lightened the dark patches of skin by nearly 70%
after 3 months--without any side effects. Those using
prescription-strength HQ saw a 77% improvement, but a quarter of them
reported reactions, such as itchy skin.

Find it in: Exuviance Essential Skin Brightening Gel ($21.50;
exuviance.com), Derma-doctor Immaculate Correction ($62; derma
doctor.com), June Jacobs Redness Diffusing Serum ($56;
junejacobs.com), and Juice Beauty Soothing Serum ($36;
juicebeauty.com).

Acai

It may be little, but this brightly colored Brazilian berry
(pronounced ah-sigh-ee) packs a big anti-aging punch. Acai berries are
rich in emollients such as essential fatty acids and phyto-sterols
that help seal in moisture and strengthen the skin's surface so it's
more resilient against outside irritation, says Howard Sobel, MD, a
New York City dermatologist and founder of DDF Skincare.

Acai is a powerful protector against free radicals, too. The pulp
contains a significant concentration of anthocyanins, the antioxidant
pigments that give red and purple produce their deep hue. Hence the
reason this superfruit boasts one of the highest ORAC scores, thought
to measure a food's ability to combat premature aging--even when
applied on skin. "Acai reduces UV damage that eventually causes
wrinkles, brown spots, and sagging," says Sobel. Proof that good
things really do come in small packages.

Find it in: Pangea Organics Japanese Matcha Tea with Acai & Gogi
Berry Facial Mask ($35; pangea organics.com), Ikove Organic Acai
Chocolate Facial Exfoliate ($20; Whole Foods), DDF Mesojection Healthy
Cell Serum ($80; beauty.com), and Tarte Double Dose Berry Boost &
Gloss in Acai Boost ($21; sephora.com).

Red Tea

Tea brewed from the leaves of this South African shrub are rich in
anti-inflammatories such as quercetin that help relieve itchiness and
facial flushing. "Red tea is ideal for reducing irritation associated
with rosacea and eczema flare-ups," says Petko Detchev, PhD, senior
chemist at Jason Natural Products. It soothes skin after a peel or
microdermabrasion, too.

Red tea also shines at preventing the UV damage that causes fine lines
and brown spots. Packed with antioxidants--including aspalathin, found
only in red tea--it reduces free radical damage by as much as 90%,
according to one study. Red tea decreased skin cancer tumors at least
60%, as well.

Find it in: Jason Red Elements Red Clay Masque ($13.60;
jason-natural.com), Care by Stella McCartney Radiance & Youth
Elixir ($64; nordstrom.com), and Dermalogica Daily Resurfacer ($65;
ulta.com).

Argan Oil

Pressed from the nut of the Moroccan argan tree, the oil is touted as
"liquid gold" for its ability to moisturize dry, lackluster skin. A
high concentration of essential fatty acids and vitamin E, two key
parts of skin's lubricating layer, explains the oil's power. "These
two components help the skin stay hydrated and prevent further
moisture loss," says Ni'Kita Wilson, a cosmetic chemist in Fairfield,
NJ.

The leaves of the tree are loaded with glycerin, a humectant that
attracts water, plumping wrinkles, says Pat Peterson, executive
director of research and development at Aveda. The leaf extract fends
off wrinkle-causing free radicals as well, reducing collagen and
elastin damage by 45% in one study.

Find it in: Liz Earle Naturally Active Skincare Superskin Concentrate
($34; us.lizearle.com), Kiehl's Superbly Restorative Dry Oil ($30;
kiehls.com), Kaeline Argatherapie Argarome Jour Day Serum ($38;
xandrarenouvelle.com), and Aveda Green Science Line Minimizer ($85;
aveda.com).

Get pretty with plants For more age-defying potions to help you look
younger naturally, check out prevention.com/organicbeauty.

Read it here first

Durian Dubbed the King of Fruit in Asia, durian may soon rule the
world as a top skin rejuvenator. Don't let its spiky exterior scare
you: The source of durian's beauty benefits is the creamy pulp, which
contains hydrating oils, protective antioxidants, and natural sugars
that strengthen cell membranes and prevent moisture from escaping,
says Howard Murad, MD, an associate clinical professor of dermatology
at UCLA Sch's a buffer to combat inflammation. So far, durian is only
available in one line: Find it in Murad Intensive Wrinkle Reducer for
Eyes ($90; murad.com).

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